Articles: How to Set Up Your First Turtle Enclosure

When you get into turtles, you get into enclosures. The enclosure is more than your turtle’s home; it’s his world. Land, air, water, temperature, light, heat, dining room, septic tank, the whole works. There’s a lot more to setting up the enclosure than getting the turtle.

Austin’s Turtle Page has helpful information you can read about under the Habitat Section - Habitats. You’ll also need to read the Filtration Page, and reviews of filters. I have an ATP article on filtration. Other topics on ATP include the Basking Spot Page and Examples & Estimates (to see real world examples). By the time you’ve read care sheets & other articles on your specific turtle’s species, and covered the linked information above, you ought to be ready to buy.

But maybe it’d be helpful to ‘pull it together’ into a bare-bones list of what you need, including standard recommendations on products experience has shown to be good. Maybe you want to get a good heater or filter, not listen to a debate on them. So here I’ll lay out set-ups that’ll work for you until you’re ready to design your own. I know most newcomers start with a small tank (20 gallon long) and move up in increments; you can save a lot of money if you setup a large enclosure to begin with. In deference to tradition, I’ll provide setups for the different stages in their lives.

Disclaimers: This information applies to the specified U.S.A. native temperate climate species (aquatic & semi-aquatic, a.k.a. ‘water turtles’). No such article is 100% complete & while this information should get you started, you still need to ‘follow through’ with your captive care education. Prices quoted for equipment are approximate, rounded in many cases, & are not the lowest prices found (when you add sales tax and/or shipping, the figures work). I have not provided pricing on all budget & recommended options in the spirit of conciseness. I took liberties in equipment selection; for instance, choosing oak aquarium stands for some setups (other materials are cheaper). You can put together a far cheaper medium or large basking semi-aquatic turtle enclosure by using a stock tank or suitable Rubbermaid storage container instead of a glass or acrylic aquarium. On the other hand, if you select a few recommended upgrades your system will cost considerably more…

I.) Juvenile Basking Semi-Aquatic Enclosure – most people start out with a baby red-eared slider (RES) roughly the size of a 50 cent piece. The same basic care applies to painted turtles, map turtles, cooters and yellow-belly sliders. All are flattened, disc-shaped, swim well and spend a lot of time in the water or basking under a heat lamp. The enclosure is good for up to 2 years for up to 2 turtles. The water will initially be about 6 inches deep; once good swimming ability is established go to 8 inches. Some underwater ‘furniture’ (driftwood, etc…) should allow resting near the surface when desired. Be careful that your tank décor does not allow turtles to climb out; they climb much better than you’re likely to anticipate.

A.) Recommended Setup:

Equipment:

1.) Enclosure: 20 gallon long aquarium.

(Horizontal size is more important than vertical, hence the ‘long’)

2.) Stand: Aquarium stand.

3.) Cover: Aquarium Hood (or screen & strip light) with fluorescent light

4.) UV-B Light Source: ReptiSun 5.0 UV-B fluorescent light bulb

Note: UV-B light doesn’t penetrate glass. You must not have any glass between the ReptiSun bulb and your turtle’s basking site. If you have to knock a glass plate out of a hood (they’re intended as splash guards), wear protective eyewear & take proper safety precautions.

5.) Water Heater: Tronic Submersible Heater – 100 watt

6.) Filter: FilStar XP2 Canister Filter

7.) Filter Bio-media: FilStar Bio-Chem Stars

8.) Basking Spot: Piece of curved Cork Bark (sold at PetsMart)

9.) Basking Light: A lamp with a 60 watt light bulb (basking light must be suspendable over the basking ramp).

10.) Gravel Vacuum (Get one that primes easily!)

11.) Thermometer.

12.) Food: A can of ReptoMin Baby Aquatic Turtle Food

13.) Cuttlebone (from the Bird section)

14.) Clump of Romaine lettuce at grocery store

Special Note: You don’t need aquarium gravel; bare-bottom is okay & easier to keep clean, although gravel does look nicer & most people use it or river rock.

Cost Estimate:

Items: Estimated Cost:

1.) 20 Gallon Long Tank Combo.: $60.00

(Tank, Hood with Fluorescent Light)

2.) 20 Gallon Tank Pine Cabinet Stand $90.00

3.) Fluker’s Black Clamp-Lamp $18.00

(250 watt rated; ceramic socket); use 60 watt normal bulb

4.) ReptiSun 5.0 UV-Bulb (Online Price!) $25.00

5.) 100 watt Tronic Submersible Heater $20.00

6.) FilStar XP2 Canister Filter $85.00

7.) FilStar Bio-Chem Stars (1 Container) $10.00

8.) Cork Bark $10.00

9.) Thermometer $5.00

10.) Gravel Vacuum $12.00

11.) 1 Can ReptoMin Aquatic Turtle Food $5.00

12.) 1 Cuttlebone $2.00

13.) 1 Clump Romaine lettuce $1.50

Total: ~ $350.

B.) Budget Options:

1.) Rubbermaid Plastic Tub (30 gallons on up)

Note: You can’t see through the sides to observe the turtles. Filled over 1/3’rd full may bow at the sides; power filters won’t hang correctly on a badly bowed plastic tub & may spill water on the floor.

2.) 10 Gallon Aquarium: not recommended. Small water volume, & total enclosure size doesn’t allow a shadier, cooler end to offset overheating risks due to the basking bulb. William Jahnkow noted a 10 gallon is workable & maintenance is easier, although it’ll be outgrown faster. Be very careful with your basking bulb if you use one; don’t start out with a 60 watt bulb; maybe a 40 watt?

3.) Use an old dresser as a tank stand or put on floor.

Note: Remember the enclosure will weigh around 10 lbs/gallon filled, and canister filters need to be below the tank’s water level to work properly.

4) Get a basking platform from the yard or woods.

Note: Avoid treated lumber or other items likely to leak chemicals. Avoid abrasives like concrete. Un-cured concrete can alkalinize the water.

C.) Recommended Upgrades:

1.) 30 gallon long or even 75 gallon Aquarium.

2.) If you move often, or the tank is otherwise in danger of being struck & broken, consider an acrylic aquarium instead of glass. It’s stronger & lighter but more expensive & scratches easily.

3.) Python System for cleaning & refilling tank far more easily

(instead of gravel vacuum)

4.) Turtle Ramp (Small or Medium) (by TeraPet)

(instead of cork bark).

5.) Mechanical or Digital Timer for lights

(sold at Wal-Mart).

6.) Ebo-Jager brand heater (sold online)

(instead of Tronic).

7.) Tronic Heater Guard (can fit Ebo-Jager, too)

8.) Tank Furniture: A Synthetic Log, Stump or Root system to explore

9.) Non-abrasive Rocks (Real or synthetic). William Jahnkow prefers to avoid rocks because turtles can run into them or fall backwards & try to right themselves, chipping the shell and creating an infection risk. Never use concrete & I recommend avoiding bricks due to abrasiveness.

10.) Clumps of plastic plants (not silk ones; some turtles eat them)

11.) Some Dry Tortoise pellets to mix 50/50 with the ReptoMin Aquatic formula to cut their dietary protein

12.) In a 55 gallon or larger tank, a T-Rex Active UV Heat or ZooMed PowerSun bulb (100 watt flood) & a ceramic socket lamp fixture (like the Fluker’s brand sold in pet stores) instead of the ReptiSun 5.0 (much more UV-B and provides heat). Be very careful of potential overheating if you use these stronger bulbs in a small enclosure!

13.) Aquarium water-testing kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite & nitrate. Useful for determining when your filter has cycled, whether filtration is adequate for waste breakdown and to give you an idea what pH your water runs.

II.) Medium Basking Semi-Aquatic Enclosure – for adult male RES, male map turtles, Southern & Midland Painted turtles, male Eastern & Western Painted turtles, and perhaps males of the smaller cooters. Carapace length is around 4 to 7 inches, and the turtle is medium-sized. Adequate water volume for swimming & keeping wastes diluted between water changes is key. This enclosure can last indefinitely for up to 2 medium-sized turtles, or a few years for those who will ultimately need the Large Basking Semi-Aquatic Enclosure. Keep in mind how well turtles climb when designing tank décor.

A.) Recommended Setup:

Equipment:

1.) Enclosure: 75 gallon aquarium.

(Same length as a 55, similar space requirement, roomier)

2.) Stand: Aquarium stand.

3.) Cover: Aquarium Glass Hood or Screen

(Glass retains moisture/warmth better than screen).

4.) Strip Lights (regular fluorescent fixtures)

5.) Basking Light & UV-B Light Source: T-Rex Active UV Heat or ZooMed PowerSun bulb (either in the 100 watt flood strength) & a ceramic socket lamp fixture (like the Fluker’s brand sold in pet stores) instead of the ReptiSun 5.0 (much more UV-B heat production). Also covers heat needs. More elegant than separate UV-B & heat setups such as used in the Juvenile enclosure.

6.) Water Heater: 2 Tronic Submersible Heaters – 200 watt

7.) Filter: FilStar XP3 Canister Filter

8.) Filter Bio-media: FilStar Bio-Chem Stars

9.) Basking Spot: Turtle Ramp (Large) (by TeraPet)

10.) Thermometer.

11.) Python System for cleaning & refilling tank.

(In larger enclosures, gravel vacuums & buckets aren’t practical)

12.) Food: A can of ReptoMin Aquatic Turtle Food

13.) Calcium Supplement: Cuttlebone (from the Bird section)

14.) Vegetation Food: Clump of Romaine lettuce from the grocery store

Special Note: You don’t need aquarium gravel; bare-bottom is okay & easier to keep clean, although gravel does look nicer & most people use it or river rock.

Cost Estimate:

Items: Estimated Cost:

1.) 75 Gallon Tank Combo.: $350.00.

(Tank, Deluxe Glass Top,

Deluxe Fluorescent Light)

2.) 75 Gallon Tank Oak Cabinet Stand $375.00

3.) Fluker’s Black Clamp-Lamp $18.00

(250 watt rated; ceramic socket)

4.) ZooMed PowerSun 100 watt UV-Bulb $50.00

5.) 2 200 watt Tronic Submersible Heaters $45.00

6.) FilStar XP3 Canister Filter $110.00

7.) FilStar Bio-Chem Stars (2 Containers) $20.00

8.) Turtle Ramp (Large) $30.00

9.) Thermometer $5.00

10.) Python system (25’) $30.00

11.) 1 Can ReptoMin Aquatic Turtle Food $5.00

12.) 1 Cuttlebone $2.00

13.) 1 Clump Romaine lettuce $1.50

Total: ~ $1,050.

B.) Budget Options:

1.) Rubbermaid Plastic Storage Bin (50 gallons on up)

Note: You can’t see through the sides to observe the turtles. Filled over 1/3’rd full may bow at the sides; power filters won’t hand correctly on a badly bowed plastic tub & may spill water on the floor. Available at most Wal-Marts.

2.) Stock Tank – sold at farm supply stores for cattle (like Rural King).

Note: Much stronger at holding up with larger water volumes; a better choice than Rubbermaid tubs except you have less choice of shape (many are circular) and may have to go out of your way to find one. Available in metal or plastic models.

3.) Use an old dresser as a tank stand or put on floor.

Note: Remember the enclosure will weigh around 10 lbs/gallon filled, and canister filters need to be below the tank’s water level to work properly.

4.) Get a basking platform from the yard or woods.

Note: Avoid treated lumber or other items likely to leak chemicals. Avoid abrasives like concrete. Un-cured concrete can alkalinize the water.

C.) Recommended upgrades:

1.) 120+ gallon aquarium.

2.) If you move often, or the tank is otherwise in danger of being struck & broken, consider an acrylic aquarium instead of glass. It’s stronger & lighter but more expensive & scratches easily.

3.) Eheim Pro II 2028 Canister Filter

(instead of FilStar XP3 & its biomedia; be sure you get an online deal with media included!)

4.) Mechanical or Digital Timer for lights

(sold at Wal-mart).

5.) Ebo-Jager brand heater (sold online)

(Instead of Tronic).

6.) Tronic Heater Guards (can fit Ebo-Jager, too)

7.) Tank Furniture: About 4 Synthetic Logs, Stumps or Root systems to explore.

Non-abrasive Rocks (Real or synthetic). William Jahnkow prefers to avoid rocks because turtles can run into them or fall backwards & try to right themselves, chipping the shell and creating an infection risk. Never use concrete & I recommend avoiding bricks due to abrasiveness.

8.) Clumps of plastic plants

(not silk ones; some turtles eat them)

9.) Some Dry Tortoise pellets to mix 50/50 with the ReptoMin Aquatic formula to cut their dietary protein

10.) For water conservation, instead of tank draining with a Python consider buying a long gravel vacuum & replacing its hose with a long stretch of hose from the pet store (sold by the foot; I bought 12 feet); you drain your tank by running that hose out the door or window. You still need the Python to refill your tank.

11.) Aquarium water-testing kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite & nitrate. Useful for determining when your filter has cycled, whether filtration is adequate for waste breakdown and to give you an idea what pH your water runs.

III.) Large Basking Semi-Aquatic Enclosure – for adult female RES, female map turtles, Eastern & Western Painted turtles & cooters. Carapace lengths run 8 to 15 inches, the turtle is large to very large, and some species are very thick as well (such as some cooters). This setup may last indefinitely for up to 2 turtles at the moderate end of this size range, or up to 4 medium basking semi-aquatic turtles. Keep in mind how well turtles climb when designing tank décor.

A.) Recommended Setup:

Equipment:

1.) Enclosure: 120 gallon aquarium (at least).

2.) Stand: Aquarium stand.

3.) Cover: Aquarium Glass Hood or Screen

(Glass retains moisture/warmth better than screen).

4.) Strip Lights (regular fluorescent fixtures)

6.) Water Heater: 3 Tronic Submersible Heaters – 200 watt

(You want 3 to 5 watts/gallon heater capacity)

7.) Filters: 2 FilStar XP3 Canister Filters

8.) Filter Bio-media: FilStar Bio-Chem Stars

9.) Basking Spot: You probably need to design a custom spot. Review the Basking Spot Page for ideas. Avoid treated lumber or other items likely to leak chemicals. Avoid abrasives like concrete. Un-cured concrete can alkalinize the water.

10.) Thermometer.

11.) Python System for cleaning & refilling tank.

(in larger enclosures, gravel vacuums & buckets aren’t practical)

12.) Food: A can of ReptoMin Aquatic Turtle Food

13.) Calcium Supplement: Cuttlebone (from the Bird section)

14.) Vegetation Food: Clump of Romaine lettuce from the grocery store

Special Note: You don’t need aquarium gravel; bare-bottom is okay & easier to keep clean, although gravel does look nicer & most people use it or river rock.

Cost Estimate:

Items: Estimated Cost:

1.) 120 Gallon Tank Combo.: $650.00.

(Tank, Deluxe Glass Top,

Deluxe Fluorescent Light)

2.) 120 Gallon Tank Oak Cabinet Stand $450.00

3.) Fluker’s Black Clamp-Lamp $18.00

(250 watt rated; ceramic socket)

5.) ZooMed PowerSun 100 watt UV-Bulb $50.00

6.) 3 200 watt Tronic Submersible Heaters $70.00

7.) 2 FilStar XP3 Canister Filter $220.00

8.) FilStar Bio-Chem Stars (4 Containers Worth) $40.00

9.) Turtle Ramp (Large) (or do-it-yourself) $30.00

10.) Thermometer $5.00

11.) Python system (25’) $30.00

12.) 1 Can ReptoMin Aquatic Turtle Food $5.00

13.) 1 Cuttlebone $2.00

14.) 1 Clump Romaine lettuce $1.50

Total: ~ $1,600.

B.) Budget Options:

1.) Stock Tank – sold at farm supply stores for cattle (like Rural King).

Note: Much stronger at holding up with larger water volumes; the usual Rubbermaid tubs aren’t strong enough for these water volumes. Metal or plastic available. Sized to 300 gallons & much larger. Much less expensive than aquariums.

2.) Custom Built Base – If you’re skilled you may build it, or find something to act as a stand. Remember tanks in this class are extremely heavy and glass tanks require even distribution of weight & a level stand. Be very careful with do-it-yourself maneuvers in this weight class.

C.) Recommended upgrades:

1.) Larger aquarium! More swimming room & waste dilution!

2.) If you move often, or the tank is otherwise in danger of being struck & broken, consider an acrylic aquarium instead of glass. It’s stronger & lighter but more expensive & scratches easily. It’s much easier to order large acrylic tanks online; it’s hard to even find large glass tanks online for shipping.

3.) 2 Eheim Pro II 2028 Canister Filters

(instead of FilStar XP3s & their biomedia; be sure you get an online deal with media included!) For stock tanks, seriously consider pond filters instead.

4.) Mechanical or Digital Timer for lights

(Sold at Wal-Mart).

5.) Ebo-Jager brand heater (sold online)

(Instead of Tronic).

6.) Tronic Heater Guards (can fit Ebo-Jager, too)

7.) Tank Furniture: About 4 Synthetic Logs, Stumps or Root systems to explore

(Keep in mind these turtles are massive & need open swimming space; don’t over-clutter the tank). Non-abrasive Rocks (Real or synthetic). William Jahnkow prefers to avoid rocks because turtles can run into them or fall backwards & try to right themselves, chipping the shell and creating an infection risk. Never use concrete & I recommend avoiding bricks due to abrasiveness.

8.) Clumps of plastic plants

(Not silk ones; some turtles eat them; most turtles in this type of setup are omnivores or herbivores, so watch whether they try to eat the plants)

9.) Some Dry Tortoise pellets to mix 50/50 with the ReptoMin Aquatic formula to cut their dietary protein (The more herbivorous species like cooters & large RES should not be maintained on high protein diets).

IV.) Juvenile Bottom-Walker Enclosure – for baby mud & musk turtles. Can be used for baby common or alligator snappers. These turtles do not swim as well as the basking varieties, are not as ‘aerodynamic’ in water, and can potentially tire & drown. Many bask very little so the tank water must have resting spots or shallow areas like a swimming pool, rather than simply a basking log over a deep-water tank. This tank can last indefinitely for a single mud turtle, but musk are reputedly more active and most people will want to ‘move up’ to the Adult Mud/Musk Enclosure after about 2 years (although you can wait much longer). Special Note: I don’t recommend any kind of snapper as your first turtle.

Use the Juvenile Basking Semi-Aquatic Enclosure design with these modifications:

a.) For snappers, they must be able to stand on their hind legs & reach the surface without swimming. They can swim, but shouldn’t have to.

b.) For Eastern mud turtles & their subspecies (Mississippi & Florida muds), keep water depth no more than 6 inches for juveniles; there are reports of drowning risk. Hatchling 3-striped mud turtles by one report initially aren’t very good swimmers, and he kept them in about 4 inches of water jammed with plastic plants and filtered with an undergravel filter. Phillip Peak finds adults do pretty well in stock tanks, with water around 18 inches deep. If you don’t want substrate or a UGF, a Duetto 100 filter is a workable alternative in very shallow small-volume tanks.

c.) While many seldom bask, provide the opportunity.

d.) Their need for UV-B isn’t as proven as it is for the more herbivorous species; a UV-B Light Source is Recommended rather than a known requirement.

e.) Places to rest underwater near the surface (synthetic logs, rocks, plastic plant clumps, etc…) are more important than for basking species; young mud/musk are quite shy & need these places for security.

Cost: Comparable to a Juveniles Basking Semi-Aquatic Setup.

V.) Adult Mud/Musk Enclosure – for adult mud/musk, or juvenile snappers of either species. Enclosure design is similar to the Juvenile Bottom-Walker Enclosure, but on a larger scale. This setup may work for a snapper up to 4 years old, depending on growth rate. Snapping turtles may accidentally injure each other & it is not recommended they be kept together past the small hatchling stage, if then.

Use the Medium Semi-Aquatic Basking Turtle Enclosure design, with the following modifications in force:

a.) Tank size: Varies with your goal. 1 Mud can live permanently in a 20 gallon long. 2 Muds or 1 musk could reside in a 30 long. 55 Gallon tanks are adequate for mud/musk but uncomfortably narrow for larger snappers & a 75 is almost the same size, just wider front-to-back. Larger is nearly always better.

b.) For Eastern mud turtles & their subspecies (Mississippi & Florida muds), keep water depth no more than 8 inches; there are reports of drowning risk. Phillip Peak has had 3-striped mud turtles do pretty well in stock tanks with water around 18 inches deep. I’m not up on yellow mud turtles.

c.) While many seldom bask, provide the opportunity.

d.) Their need for UV-B isn’t as proven as it is for the more herbivorous species; a UV-B Light Source is Recommended rather than a known requirement.

f.) Phillip Peak considers a 20 gallon long an adequate permanent home for a single mud turtle, but finds musk turtles to be more active, better swimmers & in need of larger accommodations. If the smallest permanent home for a musk turtle is your goal, use a 30 gallon or 30 gallon long. An adult common snapper will probably require the ‘ground space’ of at least a 125 gallon aquarium, and a 200 gallon tank (7’x2’x2’) is more realistic. Common snappers are more active than alligator snappers. A large alligator snapper can clear 150 (or even 200) lbs, larger than most any aquarium could hold. Huge acrylic tanks are an option, but most alligator snapper keepers will eventually resort to stock tanks (300 gallon & up).

Cost: Comparable to a Medium Basking Semi-Aquatic Setup.

VI.) Conclusion.

Even basic turtle enclosures are modestly elaborate to purchase and set up. Cost varies widely; a stock tank-based 200 gallon setup on the floor is much cheaper than a 100 gallon glass aquarium setup on an oak stand, but much less enjoyable without the eye-level side-wall visibility. A metal stand is cheaper than an oak stand. You can also save a lot of money by starting out with your final setup instead of with a juvenile setup. Decide for yourself what meets the needs of you and your turtle, and I hope this article helped you do that.

First Author: Richard Lunsford.

Editorial Assistance & Encouragement:

1.) Richard Gould.

2.) William Jahnkow

3.) Phillip Peak

4.) Matthew T.

5.) Evan D.