|
|
|
|
This portion covers the following symptoms and
medical situations:
-
SCUD /
Shell Rot
-
Cracked
Shell
-
White
Patches on Shell
-
Mushy
Stuff on Shell
-
Black
Spots on Shell
-
Red
Lines on Shell
-
Soft
Shell
-
Soft
Spots on Shell
-
Holes on
Shell
|
-
Skin
Infection
-
Brown
Patches on Skin
-
White
Patches on Skin
-
Shedding
-
Red Tint
on Skin
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Shell Rot |
|
|
|
There are two forms of this
condition: A wet form and a dry form. We’ll discuss the wet form first. Pictured
below is an example of what SCUD can look like. It has difference appearances,
and as I get photos of other examples, I will publish them here.
|
|
|
|
|
Wet SCUD
This is either bacterial infection or fungal infection. This is usually the
result of a crack, break, cut or other type of lesion in the shell that has
become infected. The typical cause for a fungal infection is the turtle being
unable to get completely dry. This condition is usually white and/or yellow,
smells really bad, and is squishy with pussy discharge not uncommon. Untreated,
it can quickly progress into septicemia.
Dry SCUD
The most common causes of this condition are water quality and injuries, albeit minor at times, from
habitat decorations (scratched while climbing, swimming or diving into the
water, substrate, heater burns, etc). It appears most times as
white
patches on shell.
The treatment (below) is similar to that
of the wet form of SCUD, while serious infections will require the addition of
systemic medications. Better results have been gained from keeping the turtle in
the alternate treatment (described above) with the water treated with
Acriflavine as well. Frye (1991) shows that pathogens that can cause SCUD can be
carried by shrimp.
Another VERY effective treatment is
the use of Silverdyne (Silver Sulfadiazine) Cream. This is a prescription
medication that is used to treat human burn victims. It is very effective.
Mineral
Deposit Buildup
This condition is commonly confused with Shell Rot and
shell bacterial growth. It is difficult to discern the difference between the
two, and the identifying features that are used to assist in determining the two
apart or confusing and sometimes inconclusive and misleading. The only way to
verify that a condition is true Shell-Rot or bacterial in nature, is to have it
tested to verify the presence of organic material.
Mineral Deposits |
|
Pic provided by Wlliam |
This is caused from having water that is heavy with
minerals. A key feature to mineral deposits is that the scutes will be clear
underneath, and this will be evident once the turtle sheds. There will be a
white-to-off-white coating or glazing over the scutes. There will be no pitting
and if pitting is present, it may be light or there might be a bacterial
infection present as well.
Remove turtle and place in a quarantine tank. The infected areas should be
cleaned and, if need be, affected scutes removed to ensure effective treatment
underneath. Remove all squishy, off-white colored material. Be careful as the
infection may have gone deep. Going too deep may cause you to penetrate into the
body cavity. If you see that you will have to go more then a little bit past
the surface of the shell, stop and seek veterinary assistance.
Listed below is a regimen that I have
followed in treating shell problems and has yielded great results. Keep in mind
that shell injuries will take months and sometimes years to get back to looking
normal if the possibility exists. It takes weeks before the shell will look like
it's getting better. While treating, you are not looking for signs of healing or
repair - you are looking to ensure that it is not spreading.
-
Clean infected
areas thoroughly with a strong, undiluted betadine, iodine or Nolvasan solution.
Let the turtle air dry in a warm setting for about 45 minutes.
-
Apply a generous coating of Silvadene
cream. Work into problem areas.
-
Leave the turtle dry and warm, ensuring that you do not over-heat, for 18-21
hours each day.
-
The next day, scrub entire shell with a one of the previously mentioned
solutions, using a soft-bristled toothbrush
-
Place them into fresh, clean water. Let them swim, drink and eat
for approximately 1 - 1 ˝ hours.
-
Repeat procedure from Step 1.
This treatment performed daily or twice daily,
depending on your time allocation, has been successful in as few as 8-10 days
but in more extreme cases can take a few weeks. It is
difficult to tell success right away, so it is often discouraging. It is,
however, quite effective and you will begin to see small improvement (in most
cases) in only a few weeks.
NOTE:
The betadine bath's 'weak tea' solution is not advised as this can potentially
bring about health issues later on.
Treatment
using Acriflavine
Acriflavine is one of the greatest
meds to use with turtles. I have treated shell infections with numerous
medications and methods, but Acriflavine has given me better and faster results.
This is my treatment method:
At this point, do 50% water
changes for the next few weeks, and then taper back down to your normal routine.
This will not only assist in fighting off anything that is trying to
re-establish itself in your turtle's home, but also helps in general with water
quality until the turtle has had proper time to heal.
Alternative Treatment |
|
An alternate treatment that
has also shown success, is to hospitalize the animal in clean water with a low
pH and the water treated with StressCoat. To utilize this method, continue the
first described treatment method mentioned above, but instead of placing the
turtle in a dry container between treatments, place the animal in this type of
aquatic setting.
This alternate treatment is
also the preferred treatment for softshell turtles.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If the shell is bleeding, then it would
most likely be a good idea to take it to a qualified vet as soon as possible. If
the injury is not very serious, then treatment at home is fairly simple.
If the turtle is bleeding excessively or
there are caved-in portions of the shell, take to a vet immediately
Remove turtle and place in a quarantine tank.
Clean the injured area with clean water. Disinfect the area with iodine or betadine.
Treat with Neosporin or triple action antibiotic. Let turtle be dry for about an hour after treatment.
Place in separate tank with clean water. You can add StressCoat for fish as it assists
in the healing process. Treat this way daily for about 2 weeks or so.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This will appear as, but
not be limited to, excessive shedding skin, sores and sometimes a general foul
smell. This condition, left untreated, can result in septicemia.
Before being
able to affectively treat the turtle, the root cause of the infection must be
determined. Generally, skin infections come about due to inadequate filtration.
Ensure that you place a quality filter in the turtle's habitat and use the
recommended filter media. This will go along way in prevention.
Treatment
using Acriflavine
Acriflavine is one of the greatest
meds to use with turtles. I have treated shell infections with numerous
medications and methods, but Acriflavine has given me better and faster results.
This is my treatment method:
At this point, do 50% water
changes for the next few weeks, and then taper back down to your normal routine.
This will not only assist in fighting off anything that is trying to
re-establish itself in your turtle's home, but also helps in general with water
quality until the turtle has had proper time to heal.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is commonly
referred to, and what most keepers think of, as
Shell Rot. Most often, this is due to a scratch or other injury or scutes that
are beginning to shed and have trapped water. This trapped water begins to
fester with bacteria and/or fungus. A preventative measure in this case would be
to provide proper basking spots where the turtle can be allowed to get
completely dry.
Remove turtle and place in a quarantine tank. The infected areas should be
cleaned and, if need be, affected scutes removed to ensure effective treatment
underneath. Remove all squishy, off-white colored material. Be careful as the
infection may have gone deep. Going too deep may cause you to penetrate into the
body cavity. If you see that you will have to go more then a little bit past
the surface of the shell, stop and seek veterinary assistance.
Listed below is a regimen that I have
followed in treating shell problems and has yielded great results. Keep in mind
that shell injuries will take months and sometimes years to get back to looking
normal if the possibility exists. It takes weeks before the shell will look like
it's getting better. While treating, you are not looking for signs of healing or
repair - you are looking to ensure that it is not spreading.
-
Clean infected
areas thoroughly with a strong, undiluted betadine, iodine or Nolvasan solution.
Let the turtle air dry in a warm setting for about 45 minutes.
-
Apply a generous coating of Silvadene
cream. Work into problem areas.
-
Leave the turtle dry and warm, ensuring that you do not over-heat, for 18-21
hours each day.
-
The next day, scrub entire shell with a one of the previously mentioned
solutions, using a soft-bristled toothbrush
-
Place them into fresh, clean water. Let them swim, drink and eat
for approximately 1 - 1 ˝ hours.
-
Repeat procedure from Step 1.
This treatment performed daily or twice daily,
depending on your time allocation, has been successful in as few as 8-10 days
but in more extreme cases can take a few weeks. It is
difficult to tell success right away, so it is often discouraging. It is,
however, quite effective and you will begin to see small improvement (in most
cases) in only a few weeks.
NOTE:
The betadine bath's 'weak tea' solution is not advised as this can potentially
bring about health issues later on.
Treatment
using Acriflavine
Acriflavine is one of the greatest
meds to use with turtles. I have treated shell infections with numerous
medications and methods, but Acriflavine has given me better and faster results.
This is my treatment method:
At this point, do 50% water
changes for the next few weeks, and then taper back down to your normal routine.
This will not only assist in fighting off anything that is trying to
re-establish itself in your turtle's home, but also helps in general with water
quality until the turtle has had proper time to heal.
Alternative Treatment |
|
An alternate treatment that
has also shown success, is to hospitalize the animal in clean water with a low
pH and the water treated with StressCoat. To utilize this method, continue the
first described treatment method mentioned above, but instead of placing the
turtle in a dry container between treatments, place the animal in this type of
aquatic setting.
This alternate treatment is
also the preferred treatment for softshell turtles.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Holes appearing in the shell can be the result of injury, infection or
dietary neglect. Often times, with a new turtle (not babies), you might begin to
see a hole forming as a scute sheds. This is most times the result of poor and
importper treatment while in the pet trade.
Some holes begin looking like ulcers.
This, again, cane be caused by many things, to include infection and diet. It is
not uncommon to see blood surrounding the outline of these appearing ulcers.
Ensure that your turtle is getting a proper
diet, proper lighting and is basking sufficiently. This is most often the case
in assisting them in repairing their problem. It will take some time to look
normal, but at least the problem is fixed. Superficial scars are acceptable as
long as proper health is returned.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If your turtle is very young, it will have a soft shell, until it hardens
naturally. This is not a poor health issue. If your turtle's shell does not
harden as it grows, then the turtle's diet needs to be reviewed, as well as the UVB light tested.
Soft spots on shell are the result of dietary problems. Ensure that you
turtle is getting their species-specific diet. Also be sure that the softening
of the shell is not the onset of a fungal infection.
Ensure
that your turtle's diet if rich in calcium and that you UVB light is still
producing UVB waves. This condition should heal itself without the aid of
medications, but if it persists without improvement, a trip to a qualified vet
is in order.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Shedding is a normal part of a turtle's life. They shed both
skin and scutes regularly.
Scutes that are shed will often appear to lift up on the edges
as they begin to release from the shell. Sometimes they will not come loose
completely and air will get trapped underneath. This will give a metallic,
copper-colored appearance underwater. This is normal. However, if the scute is
not shed in an acceptable amount of time (usually a week or so), then you might
want to gently assist the turtle in shedding these scutes. Most times, gentle
pressure or a gentle brushing with a soft toothbrush will do the trick. Never
try to remove a scute that is not ready to be shed. This can cause injury,
bleeding and can oftentimes remove too much, leaving the bone and soft tissue
open to infection. If your turtle is not shedding properly, then an evaluation
of the diet is in order. Most times, failure to properly shed scutes falls back
on a lack of vitamins in the diet, mainly Vitamin E. An increase in Vitamin E in
their food is required.
Turtles will also shed their skin, but not in the way that other
reptiles do. Their skin comes off in small and fine quantities and is difficult to see them actually shedding.
If you do see your turtle shedding with large clumps or strands of hair-like
skin hanging from them, then this is called excessive shedding. Most
times when a turtle sheds excessively, it is a sign of over-feeding, water
temperatures being too warm, poor water quality, a skin condition, or other infection in the body. A
normal "shedding" activity for some species of turtles, is to bite at
their legs, peeling off and sometimes eating small layers of skin.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is not an uncommon sight in some species.
This is your classic skin fungus. Not taken care of, it can enter the blood
stream, become septicemic, and destroy certain organs within the body.
Note: The dry-tank method has yielded the highest success
rate.
Remove turtle
and place in a quarantine tank. The infected areas should be cleaned. Be careful
when cleaning out the injury as the
infection may have gone deep. Going too deep can cause extreme pain to your
turtle.
Listed below is a regimen that I have
followed in treating shell and skin problems and has yielded great results. While treating, you are looking for signs of healing
and this may take several days before you can actually see a difference. A good
idea is to take a clear photograph before treatment and compare it to another
photograph of the same area a few days or a week later.
-
Clean infected
areas thoroughly with a strong, undiluted betadine, iodine or Nolvasan solution.
Let the turtle air dry in a warm setting for about 45 minutes.
-
Apply a generous coating of Silvadene
cream. Work into problem areas. Neosporin is also an acceptable alternative (Polysporin
for those keepers in Canada).
-
Leave the turtle dry and warm, ensuring that you do not over-heat, for 18-21
hours each day.
-
The next day, gently clean the affected area with a one of the previously mentioned
solutions.
-
Place them into fresh, clean water. Let them swim, drink and eat
for approximately 1 - 1 ˝ hours.
-
Repeat procedure from Step 1.
This treatment
performed daily or twice daily, should show you improvements within a week to 10
days.
NOTE:
The betadine bath's 'weak tea' solution is not advised as this can potentially
bring about health issues later on.
|
|
|
|
|
|